Food Writer Ranks 50 London Restaurants, Surprises With Hidden Gems

Food writer Angus Colwell released his latest ranking of 50 London restaurants on February 9 2025, placing ECCo Pizza in Westminster at number 50 and 40 Maltby Street in Bermondsey at number 49.

London diners often turn to such personal lists for guidance when choosing where to eat, especially after periods of restraint like Dry January when many seek value without sacrificing enjoyment. Colwell notes he ate out less in the preceding fortnight to save for one larger meal, which prompted him to compile this ordered selection instead of fresh reviews.

Everyday Spots Rank High

Colwell places several modest venues near the top because they deliver consistent satisfaction rather than elaborate presentations. He explicitly prefers the Regency Cafe over Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, arguing that gritty, affordable options can outperform formal dining when the goal is simple pleasure. The list avoids any scoring system and follows an order that simply feels right to him, with hyperlinks to menus and a map included for readers.

At ECCo Pizza the base offers a distinctive grit and chew paired with the orange ooze from inexpensive cheese, a combination that has drawn Colwell back with school friends and colleagues for more than ten years despite loud Cuban music and a chilly interior. Forty Maltby Street, located under a railway arch a short walk from London Bridge station, features modest dishes such as beetroot with bitter leaves, marmalade and hazelnuts; its warm lighting and unassuming setting create one of the most relaxing dining rooms in the city even if some enthusiasts rate it higher than Colwell does.

Soho Standouts and One Signature Dish

Two Soho addresses receive detailed attention. Assa serves serviceable Korean cooking, with the spicy beef bulgogi singled out as a particular highlight during a recent visit with friends. Noble Rot, also in Soho, leaves Colwell slightly deflated on some visits because its extensive wine list arrives on an iPad and certain dishes, including a duck leg with Morteau sausage, have fallen short; yet the roast chicken with morels in vin jaune and riz au pilaf remains worth ordering despite the hour-long wait and the fact that the bird is not a premium Bresse or Landes variety.

The full ranking appears on Colwell's Substack at https://anguscolwell.substack.com/p/my-top-50-london-restaurants-26-jan, where an updated 2026 version is also linked. Readers planning a meal can scan the map at the bottom of the post to locate entries or browse the hyperlinked menus before deciding where to book.