Best of London
Dulwich: London's Village with a World-Class Gallery
Dulwich is London's most convincing village — a residential enclave in south London that has preserved its Georgian and Victorian character almost entirely, its roads curving through woodland past almshouses and old college buildings that give the area a quality of being genuinely historic without feeling like a tourist attraction. The Dulwich Picture Gallery, designed by John Soane and opened in 1817, is the world's first purpose-built public art gallery — a small but extraordinary collection of Old Master paintings including works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Poussin, and Gainsborough displayed in top-lit galleries of beautiful proportions.
Dulwich Park adjacent to the gallery is one of London's finest green spaces — wide avenues of plane trees, a lake, and a cycle circuit that draws families on weekend mornings. The village itself is a conservation area of Georgian townhouses and Victorian terraces surrounding a parade of independent shops, cafes, and a pub that serves the village's residents with genuine neighbourhood character. The Dulwich Estate, one of London's largest private landholders, maintains the village character through restrictive leases that have prevented the chain retail colonization of comparable areas elsewhere in the city.
West Dulwich, Herne Hill, and East Dulwich nearby each have their own food and cafe scenes — Lordship Lane in East Dulwich is particularly strong for independent restaurants and weekend market energy. The Horniman Museum in nearby Forest Hill houses a Victorian natural history collection that is one of London's most underrated cultural institutions — its aquarium, musical instrument collection, and eccentric overstuffed walrus are genuinely extraordinary. The best approach to Dulwich is via train from London Bridge (15 minutes to North Dulwich or West Dulwich), giving a journey through south London's residential landscape that rewards on its own terms.